Aquarium Equipment... an Explanation for the Novice

You may find it difficult to choose your aquarium equipment when you discover the wide range of products available for the aquatic hobby. Provided you follow a few basic rules, and gain an understanding of the basic principles of aquarium life, you will find that things become clearer and many items of equipment that you buy will be down to personal choice.

Here is a brief description of the main items you will need to consider.

The Aquarium:
Probably your first thoughts are towards your new aquarium, careful consideration must be exercised in your choice. Ideally it should be as large as you can afford or accommodate. Obviously larger aquariums will contain a greater volume of water; this is a great advantage towards keeping water conditions more stable. In any event I would recommend a minimum size of 24x12x12ins. (60x30x30cm) this would have a capacity of 12.5 gallons (56L).

To calculate aquarium capacities:
Multiply your aquarium Length x Width x Height (in inches), divide result by 1728 = cu.feet, multiply that result by 6.25 = gallons, multiply that result by 4.55 = litres. Approximately 10% should be deducted to allow for gravel, etc.

A word of warning at this point; Water is very heavy in these quantities, an aquarium of the above dimensions, when set up, is likely to weigh in excess of 200 pounds (90 kg). I estimate my 4ft tank to be approximately one-third of a tonne. An adequate stand or purpose built cabinet is therefore essential. If weights of this magnitude are to be rested on floors supported by joists, it is important that the stand or cabinet be positioned at right angles to, and lies across the joists.

Polystyrene:
Polystyrene tiles should be placed between the surface area of your cabinet and the base of your aquarium, this is to absorb any imperfection or distortion between the two surfaces, a piece of grit, for instance, trapped between the two surfaces could quite easily crack the bottom of your tank when fully laden. Aquatic stores usually stock purpose made sheets of polystyrene.

Hoods:
Quite often aquariums are purchased complete with plastic hood and cover. These are to prevent the fish from escaping, and also help to prevent heat and evaporation loss, they also have provision for the light fittings. Although these are quite adequate, I personally prefer the appearance of a timber hood. Whatever your choice you must ensure a condensation cover or tray is fitted between the water surface and the hood to prevent condensation forming on the electrical light fitting. I use sheets of clear Perspex cut to size to form sliding doors, for feeding etc.

Gravel:
It is quite likely that you will want to add gravel to the bottom of your aquarium as a substrate. It also makes an excellent media when used with an undergravel filtration system.

If gravel is to be used at all, you must ensure that it is hardness-free no calciferous materials such as limestone, coral, chalk, etc., and not too large or too small, about 4 to 5mm.

Gravel Cleaner:
When gravel is used in the aquarium it will need regular cleaning, this task is made a lot easier with a gravel cleaner. This consists of a length of plastic hose, attached to one end is a plastic cylinder, this is placed in the gravel, whereby gravel is swirled around in the cylinder and the dirty water is drawn through the tube by gravity, and into a bucket for removal, leaving behind the cleaned gravel. Low voltage gravel vacuums are available, but these are obviously more expensive.

Filters:
As a newcomer to the hobby, you may not be aware, that as well as making your aquarium water clear for you to see into, the filters main task is to break down the waste that your fish produce. It is the friendly bacteria that live in your filter, known as "nitrifying bacteria" that achieve this. They colonize the media in your filter, and their success is completely reliant upon it. The higher the surface area of your media, the greater the efficiency of the filter, and provided they have a plentiful supply of oxygen and nutrients, and kept free of debris, they will thrive.

There are many types of aquarium filters available, although you only need to consider the three main types for your basic set up.

Undergravel:
The undergravel filter is the main filtration system that I use in both my tanks. "Undergravel plates" cover the whole of the bottom of the aquarium; these plates are full of small slits that allow water through them. Either one or two "uplift tubes" are inserted into the plates vertically at each end of the aquarium. The plates are then covered with about 2-3ins (5-8cm) of gravel, this works as the medium.

The system can either be air operated, in which case, an electrically operated "air pump" delivers air through a small tube, which is placed down the uplift tube, as the air exits the small tube at the bottom of the uplift, it rises in bubbles at the same time drawing water with it from beneath the undergravel plates, therefore the water is filtered as it passes through the gravel and beneath the plates and then up the tube to be circulated again.

The alternative to air operated, and by far the much preferred are "powerheads", these are small electric water pumps that sit on top of the uplift tubes, the way that the water is filtered is the same for both, but the "powerheads" can circulate many times the volume of water than any air operated system can, and it is this extra power that is necessary for an undergravel system to work well. They are also much quieter, and they vary in size depending on the amount of water they are required to circulate. For a basic community aquarium this should be at least 3 times per hour.

Internal filter:
These are normally smaller than their external counterpart, and generally contain only one filter medium, usually a foam structure. They are powered by pumps similar in design to the previously mentioned "powerheads" and are usually an integral part of the filter. As their name implies they operate from within the aquarium. Water is drawn into the filter compartment by the pump, there it passes through the foam, (this is where the nitrifying bacteria get to work), the water then returns to the aquarium from the pump to be recycled again.

This type of filter is the easiest of all to install and maintain I use these in both my tanks as well as the undergravels; they serve to "polish" the water of sediment, as well as a biological "backup" to my main system.

Before choosing an internal as the only means of filtration, think carefully about the size of your set up; remember water quality relies heavily on filtration.

External filter:
These are generally larger than internals and contain at least two mediums, therefore biological capacity is increased, and it is possible to add different mediums to carry out different tasks, thereby being more adaptable to individual needs.

Although based on the same principle as the internal filter, these pressurized systems require "plumbing-in" and are normally situated remote from the aquarium, usually beneath it. These are also available in various sizes, and are relatively easy to maintain.

Air Pumps:
As previously mentioned air pumps can be used in a limited capacity to power an undergravel filtration system, but by enlarge they have been superseded by "powerheads".

The air pumps primary function is to inject air bubbles into the aquarium, and although a cascade of bubbles rising to the surface may have a pleasing effect on the eye, the main reasons for aeration are rather more practical. For instance, to keep the water moving, which aids oxygenation, helps prevent dead spots (pockets of water that don’t get circulated), and aids the removal of harmful gases.

Air pumps vary in size and your choice would be dependent on the number of features you wanted run.

Aquarium Heaters:
The optimum temperature for individual fresh water species varies; however, a suitable temperature range common to most tropical fish would be between 72° and 80°F (22° and 27°C). Fluctuations in temperature are hazardous, and will tend to lead to a lower resistance to disease; it is therefore necessary to keep the temperature stable in a tropical aquarium.

It is a simple matter to install a thermostatically controlled heater, and once set, it will keep your water at a stable temperature. Obviously, to set this up, and to keep a regular check, you will need a good quality aquarium thermometer.

Heaters are rated in watts, and your choice will depend on the amount of water your aquarium holds, as a rule of thumb, simply multiply your aquarium capacity (in gallons) by 7.5, this will give you the approximate wattage required, e.g. 40gallons x 7.5 = 300 watts.

Lighting:
Fluorescent tubes light the vast majority of aquariums, and, although one tube looks much like another, there is actually a significant difference in performance between the various products available. Broadly speaking there are two categories of tube, according to their light intensity.

Standard intensity tubes are suitable for fresh water aquariums. High intensity tubes as you would expect produce a more intense light, and are predominantly used for marine aquariums, where more demanding light requirements are necessary, although they can also be used in fresh water aquariums.

The mix of wavelengths, known as the spectrum, varies considerably between products, for instance, a standard tube could predominantly use yellow-green of the spectrum to give an overall neutral white light. On the other hand, there are tubes that emit more blue and red ideal for photosynthesis in a planted aquarium.

Another specialised example are the blue tubes, as their name suggests they give off a blue light, by boosting the blue of the spectrum, this can simulate nocturnal light, and they are generally used in the marine aquarium to fill in the holes of the spectrum, produced by other lights.

Getting the light right is often overlooked by many fishkeepers, although, how much light, and the quality of light, is a matter for much speculation, you will find there is a lot of conflicting advice around. What everyone agrees though is that for planted aquariums the correct spectrum of light is essential to encourage vigorous photosynthesis.

Fish only aquaria are the easiest to light, the quality and intensity of light is not vital to their survival, although, the majority of fishes are diurnal, therefore will benefit from the day-night routine, it is recommended that the aquarium be lit for 10-12 hours each day.

Fluorescent tubes are rated on their length and wattage, 25watts-30inches (76cm), 30watts-36inches (92cm), and so on. As a rough rule of thumb, to calculate the tube/tubes you require, multiply your aquarium capacity (in gallons) by 1.5, this will give the approximate wattage required, e.g. 40 gallons x 1.5 = 60 watts = 2 x 30 watt tubes.

To operate your fluorescent tube, you will need a control unit; these are rated specifically to tube sizes, they are remote from the tank and incorporate the "motor" and the switch. As with all light bulbs, these tubes will dim over time, it is therefore necessary to change them at regular intervals, approximately 9 months or so.

Decor:
This is down to personal choice, although, you will have a better effect if you keep it looking natural. If you’re using rocks in your décor, as with gravel, be sure to use inert materials, such as sandstone or slate, and also bear in mind the weight of any large rockwork you design, if you use a lot of rocks be sure the structure is stable, you could consider gluing it together with aquarium sealant, this would avoid it toppling over and injuring fish or damaging the aquarium. These structures are useful, in that they give shelter to the shy and more nervous fish of the community.

Bogwood and Mopani:
These woods are quite attractive, especially in planted aquaria, but you must remember to soak Bogwood for at least a week before putting it into your tank, this will leach out the dye, although you can never get rid of it all together. The water will have a subtle brown tinge to it, which I find quite warm and effective.

Mopani wood, on the other hand, doesn’t have this effect; it is a harder wood, (an iron wood of Southern Africa) therefore it will not rot as quickly, and it doesn’t leach out colour the same as Bogwood. The use of these materials in your tank will naturally make the water more acidic over time, due to the slow decomposition of the wood. I will be covering this later, where you will learn about water tests, and conditions.

You could consider using film décor, this sticks onto the rear of the aquarium, it completely covers the glass at the back of the tank, and there are various designs, it is bought by length, off the roll.

Tap Water Conditioners and Dechlorinators:
Chlorine is a powerful chemical that is added to tap water to kill bacteria, so that it is safe for us to drink. It is potentially lethal to fish if left in the aquarium untreated. It can strip the protective coating off the fish, making them vulnerable to bacterial and fungal infection. Also heavy metals, such as copper, lead and zinc can be found in most tap water supplies. These metals are toxic to all tropical fish.

It is therefore necessary to treat the water before it goes into the aquarium. There are a number of products available to do this, some dechlorinate, and others will also remove heavy metals as well, you can also buy products that will completely condition the water, and adjust the pH.

Test Kits:
Harmful pollutants that may be present in your aquarium water cannot be seen, therefore, the only way to be sure of its condition is to do regular water tests. There are many tests that will indicate your waters properties and condition; here I have listed the more important ones.

Ammonia/Ammonium Test:
Ammonia is very soluble in water; it is excreted by all fishes, and is extremely poisonous to them, a by-product of ammonia is less toxic ammonium, which is formed by the acceptance of a proton by an ammonia molecule, and is present at lower pH levels. Ammonia will become more toxic at higher pH, levels, and to a lesser degree, on the temperature. This test gives an early warning of a failing filtration system, probably due to overstocking of fish, or over feeding.

Ammonia tests actually measure total ammonia; this is a combination of ammonia and ammonium. To properly determine the amount of toxic ammonia that may be present in your water, you will need to know its pH, and temperature to do the test. You can then compare the result of your test against the chart supplied with the test kit to determine if ammonia is present, and to what degree, the ideal result should be zero.

Nitrite Test:
Ammonia is broken down and converted into Nitrite by nitrifying bacteria, (nitrosomonas bacteria), although less poisonous than ammonia, nitrite is very dangerous to your fish. A nitrite presence usually means a bacterially immature or inefficient filtration system, possibly overstocking and/or feeding. This test will indicate what level of nitrite, if any is present. Levels above 1.0mg/L (ppm) for fresh water aquariums are considered unsafe; ideally as with ammonia, readings should be zero.

Nitrate Test:
Nitrite is broken down and converted into Nitrate, this is the end product of the nitrogen cycle, and is used as a food source by plants and algae. Nitrate is relatively non-toxic, but if high readings are observed from your test result, it is indicative that a partial water change is necessary.

pH test:
As various fish species originate from different waters of the world, so the pH of those waters differ; it is therefore necessary to mimic those conditions the best we can. A pH test will indicate your waters acidity or alkalinity. Sudden changes to pH should be avoided; this causes stress to fish, which lowers their resistance to disease, for this reason it is therefore very important that any pH adjustments be made gradually over a period of time.

Water Hardness Tests:
Most species of fish do not like hard alkaline water, some species however do live in such conditions and need hard alkaline water to survive. Under the wrong conditions fish species of any given type will fail to breed, be poorly coloured and have a low resistance to disease. It is therefore necessary to determine what type of water you have in your aquarium for the sake of your fishes survival.

There are two hardness tests, one to confirm its GH (General Hardness), and is a measure of all the dissolved salts in the water. These salts are principally composed of calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg). GH can also be termed as total hardness. The other test is for Carbonate Hardness (KH) or temporary hardness, and is commonly referred to as alkalinity. It is a measurement of the capacity for water to neutralise an acid, and is known as the buffering capacity. Therefore water hardness is closely linked to pH.

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